Introduction
The thick-lipped gourami (Trichogaster labiosus) is a graceful labyrinth fish that has captivated aquarists worldwide for over a century. As the largest of the former Colisa species, this gourami displays coloration reminiscent of the dwarf gourami but with a notably peaceful temperament despite its impressive size. In my experience, this combination of beauty and gentle nature makes it an excellent choice for community aquariums.
Scientific Classification
Domain: Eukaryota Kingdom: Animalia Phylum: Chordata Class: Actinopterygii Order: Perciformes Family: Osphronemidae Genus: Trichogaster Species: Trichogaster labiosus
Ichthyologists disbanded the genus Colisa, reassigning its species to other genera. The thick-lipped gourami now belongs to Trichogaster, with the full scientific name Trichogaster labiosus (Day, 1878). First described by Day in 1878, the species was introduced to Europe in 1904, though widespread popularity among aquarists came in 1911 with mass imports from Rangoon.
Natural Habitat
The thick-lipped gourami originates from Southern Myanmar (formerly Burma) and Northern India, inhabiting the Irrawaddy River basin. In nature, these fish prefer slow-moving rivers, streams, lakes, and ponds with dense floating vegetation, avoiding open water areas.
Physical Description and Appearance
Trichogaster labiosus is the largest representative of the former Colisa genus. Wild specimens reach up to 10 cm in length, while aquarium individuals typically grow to 7-8 cm. The body is deep, laterally compressed, and oval-shaped.
Coloration
The base body color is blue with rusty-orange or brownish tones. Eight to ten vertical stripes in brick-red or turquoise run across the body. A distinctive black stripe passes through the eye, creating the visual illusion of a thickened upper lip—the feature that gives this species its common name. The unpaired fins display an olive base color with turquoise highlights, while the upper edge of the dorsal fin features red edging. The lower head and belly shimmer with green-blue iridescence.
Sexual Dimorphism
Males have pointed dorsal fin tips, while females display rounded ones. The modified pelvic fins form thread-like feelers—red in males, yellow in females. Males exhibit brighter coloration, especially during breeding periods.
Tank Parameters for Thick-lipped Gourami
| Parameter | Value |
|---|---|
| Minimum tank volume | 70-80 liters |
| Water temperature | 22-28°C (optimal 25-27°C) |
| pH | 6.0-7.5 |
| Water hardness (dGH) | 5-15° |
| Lifespan | 4-5 years (up to 7 with excellent care) |
| Adult size | 7-10 cm |
| Care difficulty | Low |
Aquarium Care Requirements
A pair of thick-lipped gouramis requires a minimum of 70-80 liters, though they thrive in larger community setups. In my experience, despite their size, these are peaceful creatures that won’t harass even the smallest tankmates. They make excellent community fish and can be preferable to the more commonly kept dwarf gourami.
Compatible Tankmates
When selecting companions, choose non-aggressive species that aren’t overly boisterous. Trichogaster labiosus is not only peaceful but also somewhat timid. Barbs make poor tankmates—these active fish tend to nip at long fins and feelers. While damaged feelers will heal, they often develop a bent, crooked appearance.
Suitable companions include:
- Neon tetras and rasboras
- Corydoras catfish
- Danio rerio
- Other peaceful labyrinth fish
Avoid housing with the closely related banded gourami (Trichogaster fasciata) to prevent hybridization.
Substrate and Décor
Thick-lipped gouramis show no particular substrate preference, allowing flexibility in your choice. I recommend using dark substrate—against dark backgrounds, these fish appear more striking with enhanced color saturation. Soft sand or smooth fine gravel protects their delicate feelers.
Aquarium Plants
Various aquarium plants work well with this species. Given their timid nature, dense plant thickets provide essential hiding spots when fish feel threatened—whether the danger is real or perceived. Vallisneria, elodea, and hornwort serve well for basic plantings. For those preferring more exotic options, various Cryptocoryne species, Anubias, and Java fern create excellent displays.
Floating plants (water lettuce, duckweed, Salvinia) help create the subdued lighting characteristic of their natural habitat and prove useful during breeding, though males don’t incorporate them into bubble nests.
Lighting and Temperature
Thick-lipped gouramis appreciate bright lighting. Ideally, the aquarium should receive several hours of natural sunlight daily (avoiding direct rays during hot periods). Water temperature should not drop below 22°C, with 25-27°C being optimal. While hardness and pH aren’t critical, fish display better health in slightly acidic, soft water.
Cover the aquarium with glass or a lid to prevent cold air from reaching the water surface. As labyrinth fish that gulp atmospheric air, exposure to cold air can cause respiratory problems.
Feeding
Trichogaster labiosus is omnivorous and undemanding regarding diet. These fish accept most offered foods: quality flakes and pellets, live and frozen foods. In my experience, dietary variety maintains optimal health and vibrant coloration.
Recommended foods include:
- Quality dry foods (flakes, pellets)
- Live foods: bloodworms, daphnia, brine shrimp, glassworms
- Frozen foods: bloodworms, brine shrimp, cyclops
Feed small portions 2-3 times daily. Each portion should be consumed within 2-3 minutes. I recommend one fasting day weekly—this helps maintain water quality and digestive system health.
Breeding Thick-lipped Gourami
Spawning typically occurs in spring, though favorable conditions can trigger year-round breeding. Reproduction is relatively straightforward, requiring minimal special preparation in most cases.
Breeding Preparation
A separate breeding tank of 30-50 liters works well. Water depth should be shallow—approximately 10-15 cm. Raise temperature to 26-28°C (some sources recommend 28-30°C). Spawning triggers include temperature increases and water changes to softer parameters.
Before breeding, condition breeders for 1-2 weeks with abundant live and frozen protein-rich foods. Floating plants (water lettuce, duckweed) help males anchor bubble nests.
Spawning Process
When ready, males construct bubble nests characteristic of all labyrinth fish. During this period, cold air poses particular danger. Nest construction requires gulping substantial air quantities, which males expel as bubbles. Unlike some relatives, males don’t incorporate plant material, resulting in fragile, diffuse nests.
Once the nest is complete, fish position themselves beneath it for spawning. Females release 500-1500 eggs per spawn (some sources cite up to 2000-2500 under ideal conditions, though such numbers typically reflect commercial breeding operations).
Fry Care
After spawning completes, remove the female, leaving paternal duties to the male. He vigilantly guards the nest and tends the eggs. Incubation lasts 24-48 hours depending on temperature. After another 2-3 days, fry become free-swimming and begin feeding. Don’t miss this moment—remove the male and begin feeding fry.
Raising Fry
Despite adult size, thick-lipped gourami fry are extremely small. Raise them on live dust, rotifers, or infusoria. In my experience, live foods yield best results. As a last resort, artificial foods—boiled egg yolk or specialized liquid fry foods—work but produce inferior outcomes. As fry grow, transition them to brine shrimp nauplii and microworms.
Conclusion
The thick-lipped gourami deserves far more popularity than it currently enjoys in the aquarium hobby. These fish are beautiful and relatively undemanding, making them suitable for beginners. Their peaceful temperament allows community tank housing, eliminating the need for dedicated setups. With proper care, Trichogaster labiosus will reward you with stunning beauty and fascinating behavior for 4-7 years.
Article updated: 2026-08-25
